2006
by June Chua

In ancient Greece , toga-wearing residents would carry a cloth bag to filter their rainwater but in 2006, the Chloe-clad classes have tossed the bag for a $20 bottle. Water has gone from rustic to rich.

Bono of U2 and Madonna's libation of choice is "Voss" from Norway . It's from an artesian well, captured in a bottle designed by an ex-Calvin Klein creative director. The singer stocked it at her wedding to director Guy Ritchie.

Cameron Diaz and Sting are also shunning wine for water, spurring restaurants to hire professional tasters of liquid crystal.

In 2004, New York's Ritz-Carlton created the world's first "water sommelier" and offers 50 selections. Toronto 's Royal York Fairmont followed, with 36 brands and an expert guide.

"We offer both a wine and water menu before the food menu and that's my opportunity to introduce clients to our water choices," says Hoon Namgoong, manager of the hotel's restaurant Epic and its current water expert.

"Voss is a favourite. It's sharp and the bubble is large, with a velvety texture," explains Namgoong, who adds the $18/bottle Voss goes well with seafood dishes.

Namgoong says high mineral content water – such as Italy's Galvanina and San Pellegrino and Greece 's IOLI -- tends to be saltier, complementing hearty dishes such as lamb, rabbit and duck.

The H20 specialist says Epic's bottled waters range from $7 to $20 a bottle. The priciest is "Gleneagles," from a natural spring in the Scottish highlands, described as "beautiful" in taste and presentation.

Namgoong's top three picks are:

1. "Voss" ( Norway ) – crisp, pure
2. "Whistler" (from B.C.) – glacial, refreshing
3. "Gerolsteiner" ( Germany ) – smooth, soft bubbles